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Archive for September, 2011

I’ve had the Guinness Black Lager. FINALLY. So I can finally have an opinion when people ask about it, rather than having to sit back as everyone else tells me “it’s good” or “it’s kinda disappointing” or “ick” or whatever else. As for the disappointment (and there has been some), I have some theories on that, but those can wait until I’ve covered the actual beer.

Basic Info:
Name:
Black Lager
Origin: Guinness
Style: Dark/Black Lager
ABV: 4.5%
IBU: haven’t seen posted anywhere, but it’s a lager, so it won’t be high
I drank this: while absently half-watching the Pitt/Notre Dame game yesterday. ND won, for those who care.

Here’s the pic. I like the label:

As you can see in the pic, this stuff is massively carbonated – nearly soda/pop/Coke-level carbonated. Like, I couldn’t taste around the carbonation at first. I had to let it settle for a few minutes before trying again. That said, I don’t drink soda/pop/Coke and haven’t for more than a decade, so I’m not used to that much carbonation anymore.

The scent is, like most lagers, pretty understated - it falls into the “this smells like beer” category that most lagers (especially Oktoberfests) smell like, mostly malts with a hint of something slightly bitter on top.

The beer itself is sharp and fairly thin, largely (I think) an effect of the carbonation level and the hops, which do that tongue-bitey thing more than they give any sort of bitterness. Plus, you know, it’s a lager, and lagers are typically light-bodied.* The flavor is mostly roasted malts shot through with cola, chocolate, a hint of smoke and something slightly earthy, like the way dried leaves smell in the fall. It has a slightly sour aftertaste, in the fashion of most lagers. It isn’t *bad* sour, mind you, just kind of drying and slightly milk chocolately and slightly, well, sour. I’m glad I tried the beer at the beginning of Autumn, because with the hints of smoke and dried leaves it strikes me as an Autumnal sort of beer. It’s also totally sessionable once the carbonation settles down. I think it would be kickass with a plate of smoked cheddar and some wheat crackers.

As to whether I *like* it, I’m undecided, which means I probably need to have another one. It’s not *bad* - for a Black Lager (a style I don’t particularly like), it’s actually pretty good. It’d be fun to compare it to a Sam Adams Black Lager – I may do that soon and post results.

Most people I’ve talked to tell me they’re disappointed, and I can kind of see that as well. It’s expectations. The thing isn’t that it’s a bad beer, it’s that it’s an okay-to-fairly good beer that happens to come from Guinness. The Guinness name, however, brings with it a level of expectation which knocks “okay” to “mediocre” or even “bad.” And then there’s the style problem: this is a lager, not an ale, but everyone who’s been disappointed seems to be expecting an ale. Like, lagers are generally light-bodied. The Black Lager is no exception to this rule. However, when most people see Guinness on the label and see a dark beer, they’re looking for something rounder, something more full-bodied (like an ale). So despite the fact that this is absolutely what it’s supposed to be style-wise, it’s not the standard Guinness mouthfeel and body and everything else. BECAUSE IT ISN’T AN ALE.

To sum up: to everyone who’s trying this beer and saying “this isn’t Guinness”: you’re right. It’s not Guinness. It’s a beer *by* Guinness, but it isn’t *Guinness*. Try it for what it is and see what you think. Don’t go into it expecting lager yeast to make something that tastes like an ale: it’s not going to happen.

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*I know I spend too much time in this review harping on the fact that this is a lager rather than an ale (for those who don’t know, a stout is a type of ale), and I’m sorry for that. It’s just that every complaint I’ve heard about the beer can be summed up with “I was expecting a stout and found myself drinking a lager.” If you want a Guinness, drink a Guinness. If you want to see what Guinness does with a Black Lager, then try this beer. Fin.

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Dedicated to those of you who thought Sierra Nevada only made Pale Ale,* and for those of you who think that Sierra Nevada’s best beers are their big, showy anniversary and collaboration ales.

Basic Info:
Name:
Porter
Origin: Sierra Nevada Brewing Co, Chico, CA
Style: American Porter
ABV: 5.6%
IBU: 32
I drank this: flopped on my butt at home out of a Jayhawk-bearing pint glass** while watching the British version of Top Gear, because that’s how we roll around here

Right. So we all know the Sierra Nevada Pale Ale is one of those beers which helped put American craft beer on the proverbial map. And they’ve got a phenomenally kickass Barleywine. But they do other things – normal, easy-to-drink beers – that are also excellent. Their Porter is in the excellent category, at least in my mind.

The thing with Porters is that, like Brown Ales, they’re one of those beers that breweries screw up. Brown Ales have a tendency to end up being watery, flavorless also-rans, the beers that the brewers threw together in a few moments so that they could go back to playing with something showier - an Imperial IPA or Double Dry-Hopped Imperial White Ale*** or whatever. Porters tend to end up sadly out-of-whack – one possessed of an overbearing hop profile, another completely hopless, another lacking in any body or interest whatsoever.

Sierra Nevada manages to avoid all these Porter pitfalls.+ As you would be able to see in the pic above were the pic of decent quality, the beer is a rich, deep brown. It’s not quite all the way to black (though I’ve had some Porters that were), and it’s translucent enough to let an auburn light come through when held up to a lamp. Scent-wise, it’s primarily toasty malts and milk chocolate with a run of herbal hoppiness on top.

Drinking it: mouthfeel comes first. It’s smooth and creamy and lovely at first, and then balances it out with a sharp bite of hops (remember: American Porter is hoppier than London Porter – American in the style name *always* denotes a higher hop level) before going slightly foamy. The malt profile is milk chocolate and malt – like malted milk ball-flavor – with hints of toasty-roasty bits (that is a real flavor, I swear) and a *slight* hint of toffee. The hops are that sort of sharp style that comes across as more feeling than flavor, but add a sort of herbal top note to the malts.

The balance of this beer is superb – it’s nicely chocolatey and rich, but still sharp enough to read as a Porter rather than a Stout. It’s a great Fall beer, likely to be one of my fallbacks when it’s 55 and raining and I’m not in the mood for wine.

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*I should point out here that I’ll never review a Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, because you should already have had one, just like you should already have had a Sam Adams Boston Lager and a Guinness. I’m starting to think I should put together a (highly subjective) list of beers that are standard bearers for their style, so that you can drink one and have a fairly good idea of what a particular style is supposed to taste like. Anyway. That will be a post for a moment when I’m feeling particularly argumentative, because I’m pretty sure no one’s going to agree with me on all points.
**Jayhawks are the bestest mascot of all best mascots EVER. This point is non-negotiable.
***To my knowledge, I just made this up – the closest thing that I can think of would be the Boulevard/Deschutes White IPA Collaboration Ale that came out back in late July or early August. That said, were someone to double dry-hop an Imperial White Ale, I would totally drink one.

+ *headdesk* My apologies for the alliterative phrasing (I tried three different versions – they all sound stupid). After two days of holiday product meetings last week, there’s some niggling part of my brain that’s still functioning in some sort of weird marketing speak. It’s making me NUTS, y’all. SAVE ME.

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